kamilsdz

Drosera Capensis Nikon d60 + kit + helios

Czemu ta alata jest taka "jasna"? ;-)

Raz wyciągnąłem. Roślina wypuszcza już pierwsze korzonki jeśli można to tak nazwać, a już myślałem że nic z niej nie będzie. Pozdrawiam

A powiedzcie mi. Który parapet byłby dla Ventraty bardziej odpowiedni - północny czy południowy?

Żółknięcie roślin opanowałem. Teraz mam do was jeszcze jedno pytanie. Czy to normalne, że roślinka na dole jest czarna ( gnije? )? Wygląda to mnie więcej tak jak tu: z tym że górna część rośliny u mnie wygląda OK

Przeszukałem trochę internet i oto co znalazłem: "As an alternative to feeding with insects, Nepenthes may be given artificial fertilizers. A variety of brands can be used, but those with a high nitrogen content and full micronutrients give the best results. Fertilizer (usually diluted to 1/4 normal concentration) can be applied directly to the soil once monthly to mature, actively-growing plants. Young plants or slow-growing species (especially highlanders) should be given a more dilute solution and/or at less frequent intervals. " i tu też bardzo ciekawa wypowiedz: "Fertilizing has been a topic of debate among Nepenthes enthusiasts for some time. I remember reading and hearing that fertilizing Nepenthes will cause plants to cease making pitchers. The theory being that Nepenthes are carnivorous plants by nature, so if they can obtain their nutrients through fertilizers the need to produce pitchers would not be necessary. Through my experimentations I've found that fertilizing isn't for me. The main reason is that plant growth was increased, but pitcher production seemed to decrease. Since I grow my plants outdoors, they are able to catch prey on their own. I've heard from growers in the industry that it's best "to keep your plants hungry." So that's what I do. When I discontinued fertilizing and started hosing my plants down is when I saw the most incredible production in pitchering. An argument can be made that it was the added humidity and moisture that attributed to increased pitcher production. No doubt, but keeping them "hungry" seems to be a good rule of thumb. Now if you're growing indoors or in a greenhouse that doesn't have access to a lot of insects then a little fertilization may benefit your Nepenthes. Another grower I spoke with gave me some pretty sensible advice. He said that fertilization gives Nepenthes an "extra boost" for good health and growth. Maybe once a month, at the beginning of the growing season or so, a quick hit with some fertilizer will be good for Nepenthes. The plants will be actively growing and the added nutrients will increase that growth. I don't do that with my plants but following that strategy seems to make sense. I do know that fertilizing a Nepenthes in winter when it's not actively growing, or a Nepenthes in poor health will increase the chances of losing the plant. Forcing growth on a sick or stressed plant usually results in loss. The other problem for me was that fertilizing during winter increased microbial growth in the soil that led to rot and I lost plants. When I did fertilize I used a seaweed based fertilizer that was a 16-16-16 rating at a reduced strength. Two brands come to mind like SeaGrow and MaxSea. The plants did respond to it with marked growth. Other growers have their own preferences and special regimens to fertilizing. Some use Osmocote for a slow release over time for example. So there's many options for fertilizing available out there. One of my rules was that I would ask other growers and vendors that had really nice plants what they were doing with their fertilizers before I started with mine. Then from there I would experiment and see if it was worth the added cost and benefit. There are some growers that are very devoted and have strong opinions on whether fertilizers work with Nepenthes and voice their opinions actively in the Nepenthes forums. Fertilizing won't kill your plants if used wisely, but choosing to fertilize is more a personal choice than a necessity for growing healthy, pitchering Nepenthes. "

Mam w domu coś takiego: http://www.agrecol.pl/index.php?page=shop....444&lang=pl Jak sądzicie - nada się do dzbaneczników? Dolistnie mała dawka nawozów chyba nie zaszkodzi.

1. Nie, nie stoją w wodze. W akwa jest woda, ale doniczki stoją na suchych podstawkach. 2. No być może, spróbuję skrócić czas. A roślina nie stoi na bezpośrednim słońcu tylko na pólnocnych parapecie (no chyba że coś pokręciłem, ogólnie to na tym gdzie jest najmniej światła :-) ) Ukorzeniacz zastosowałem na samym początku. I to nie Ventrata tylko Rebecca Soper Jeszcze raz dziękuję za rady, Pozdrawiam

Dziękuję za rady. Tak to wyglądało jakoś tydzień temu: Poprzycinałem tak jak radziłeś liście, zobaczymy może coś jeszcze z tego będzie. Pozdrawiam

Witam, ok 2 tyg. temu postanowiłem przyciąć dzbanka i ukorzenić to co przyciąłem, są to dość duże już roślinki, każda z nich ma po 8-10 liści. Posadziłem je w torf, podlałem i dałem do akwa w którym jest duża wilgotność. Dodatkowo doświetlam od 6 do 22. Całość stoi na południowym parapecie. Liście roślin zaczęły teraz jednak żółknąć. Co może być tego przyczyną i co zrobić aby temu zapobiec? Pozdrawiam